2015 - The Journey beneath the skin

Professor Albert Kligman, the father of Corneotherapy, entitled his first research paper; "How the dead stratum corneum became alive".

That was in 1965 and it was the start of this thinking; “Far from being a dead inert wrapping, the stratum corneum has turned out to be a remarkably dynamic tissue with a multiplicity of functions which continue to surprise and excite us”; Albert Kligman.

This scientific approach; labelled since as Corneotherapy, was researching skin barrier disorders and it had beauty therapists of the 80s and 90s reaching for their trusty dark Wood Lamps and squeaky “Maggi lamps” to peer at the skin in vain- wishing to diagnose what was in front of their noses!

Since the invention of the original Wood’s lamp by Robert William Wood in 1903, skin diagnosis based upon the fluorescence behaviour of skin tissue has been well accepted in dermatology and cosmetic skin care for almost 90 years but has hardly changed. Today, clients seeking professional skin care are more knowledgeable and have higher expectations of skin treatments and care products. Therefore, a profound skin analysis has become an essential part of the treatment and product advices provided by modern skin care institutes. Utilising the Pastiche Method® allowed us to provide a profound analysis and fortunately in Eienhoven, The Netherlands, and nine years ago Walter Arkesteijn began investigating diagnostic systems based on a revolution in fluorescence-based skin diagnosis. The Observ® series of skin diagnosis tools proudly marched into our market in 2014. They are based upon a patent pending LED illumination technology that reveals those hidden skin conditions and concerns we were peering at in the 1980s with unparalleled clarity.

View the actual skin textural surface plus see the underlying effects of sun damage.
“Though the principles of skin fluorescence have been widely accepted in the professional skin care community for decades, I knew that the conventional Wood’s lamp technology would never release the full potential of fluorescence based skin diagnosis,” explains Walter Arkesteijn, inventor of the OBSERV. “Therefore, I have made it a personal commitment to change this,” says the young CEO of the company. “With a devoted team of engineers, over a time period of over 8 years we not only succeeded in developing a technology which brings out hidden skin conditions with a distinction and contrast as never seen before but also made sure that the technology can be used in conjunction with the mobile computer technology being used today by beauty therapists and skin care practitioners”.

The Observ devices are equipped with low intensity, but very pure UV light sources. Via an ingenious system of optics and computer-calculated mirrors, invisible UV light is projected into the facial skin. The rays travel through all layers up deep into the dermis. The cells in the human skin tissue have the natural capacity to turn these invisible rays into visible light. Different cells and skin tissues in different conditions create different fluorescent illumination patterns. Consequently, skin impairments and conditions which previously hardly could be seen by the naked eye, now clearly stand out from normal healthy skin tissue. This new in-salon diagnostic technology allows the instant switching to a clinical daylight illumination and special modes bring out the surface texture of the skin and pigment and vascular matting; which was once hidden from our own eyes; beneath the surface of the skin.

View the daylight visual and the UV Black light pigmentation patterns.
Walter Arkesteijn had developed this amazing skin diagnostic device on the basis of the Pastiche Method®. The OBSERV carries the “Pastiche “logo in recognition of the success of Florence Barrett-Hill and her Pastiche Method. The last two years have seen this Diagnostic skin device permeate the globe.

Clients are in awe of the ease of use, the portability and clarity provided with this device. It has a universal smartphone holder allowing the capturing of images using any modern smartphone at hand. There is a unique model that works with specific iPad models. A free app can be downloaded from the official App Store and converts the system into an easy to use system making it possible to record facial skin conditions at the touch of the finger. All images can be stored in the internal client database for later retrieval. Using the iPad, communication on treatment progress can be done on a modern, easy and effective way.

Woods Lamp clarity 
This style of equipment allows beauty therapists to make a scientifically informed choice as to what products and treatments are needed to treat client’s skins. 

By Margaret Walsh www.observ.co.nz


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