Pumpkin contains natural Lactic acid, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid, allowing pumpkin products to enhance cell turnover of the epidermis both on the surface of the skin and in the follicles. Lactic & Glycolic Acid enhance cell turnover on the surface, and stimulate the rejuvenation of collagen and elastin in the dermal layer. Salicylic Acid being lipophilic will penetrate the follicles to enhance cellular turnover in the walls of the follicles. Additionally, it is antibacterial, the combination of these properties of AHA’s & BHA make pumpkin a good resource for anti-acne & anti-ageing clients and hyper-pigmentation problems.
HIGH POWERED ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants are important to anti-ageing in that they scavenge free radicals, preventing them from attacking healthy cells. Pumpkin contains the highest concentration among vegetables of Vitamin A, a highly active antioxidant. It targets the cell receptors responsible for activating cell turnover. It stimulates growth of the base layer of the epidermis, helping the cells to progress to maturity, and giving structural integrity to both the epidermis and the dermis. Vitamin C, another active antioxidant beneficial to warding off free radicals, is also present in pumpkins.
Pumpkin contains proteolytic enzymes, which help in breaking down the keratin bond between dead cells. This allows the sloughing of the outer layer of dead cells without damaging the inner living cells. A smooth, more even toned and clean skin is the result of proteolytic enzyme activity in a treatment mask.
Patients love experiencing new treatments, especially ones which have a wonderful aroma, produce a great feeling while on the skin, and have positive results which are immediately visible and support their treatment goals. When chemists get all three of these properties formulated into one product, they know they have an offering which will encourage patient return and loyalty, and one which will be placed permanently on clinic service menus.
Pumpkin Peel treatment masks have that triple attraction: they smell great, the patient feels like something is happening’ when they are applied, and great results can be seen immediately when they are removed.
The pleasing aromas, the tingle, and the visible results produce an excitement in both the patient and the cosmetic clinic right from the very first use. “My first patient with pumpkin was an acneic teenager’, says Will Fennell, a paramedical aesthetician, “Within minutes of the first treatment, the skin had a more even tone and very fresh appearance.” Fennell loves using this product on his male acne patients now “It is results oriented, but with much less sting than just a straight Salicylic peel, an alternative that produces great results”, he says.
The aroma of a pumpkin treatment is the natural, rich, spicy fragrance of pumpkin. Even the colour demonstrates where the ingredients came from before being formulated into a skincare product. It is a warm brownish-orange, just like the inside of a ripe pumpkin.
NATURAL INGREDIENTS: ENZYMES
Pumpkin, Cucurbita Pepo, from the family Cucurbitaceae, is widely used in many cultures as a food. But it is also good resource for the skincare industry as an ingredient for pre and post treatments, to fight ageing, and for treating and preventing acne. The whole pulp of the pumpkin, as well as a solution of its enzymes, is used in peel products for healthy exfoliation of the epidermis.
HOW PUMPKIN PEEL WORKS:
These ingredients allow pumpkin resurfacing peels to be a triple powered treatment. The enzymes break down the bonds of the dead surface cells, allowing their exfoliation and exposure of younger epidermal cells. Beta Hydroxy Acids cause a tightening of the skin, allowing the client to immediately feel that her skin is tauter. The Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acid penetrate the layers of the skin to encourage the turnover of cells in the epidermis of the skin and follicles, post treatment, bringing younger cells to the surface and cleansing the follicles of debris and dead cells. In the meantime, the antioxidants strengthen the skin’s defenses against free radicals, fighting the ravages of age. Later, collagen and elastin rejuvenation is stimulated by the AHA’s.
The immediately visible results with pumpkin masks are exfoliation, more even skin tones and tightening of the skin. Kaye Scott, a cosmetic nurse says “clients like the immediate improvement in smoothness, a more even colouration and the glow they have when they leave”. Scott uses this peel mask on patients with oily, congested and acne skin because it produces results, which can be noticed immediately following the treatment. “Within 24 hours the final results are there and my clients love it”. She says.
Scott also uses this peel in pre-laser mini-series of three treatments. “It has a very noticeable cleansing effect on the skin, as well as generally enhancing the skins health”, she says. She also uses it in post treatment series as it boosts the results noticeably. =
HOW DOES THE TREATMENT FEEL?
The pumpkin peel mask is warm when applied to the face, caused by natural exothermic property in pumpkin. With a well formulated product, patients describe the feeling as ‘warm and prickly’, and it will last for several minutes which results in a pleasant feeling of tightening.
MORE THAN A PROVISION
Pumpkin enzyme masks are usually versatile and can be used in many different ways. It can be an enzyme treatment in the deep cleaning step to clear the surface of the skin and produce an immediate tightening while enhancing penetration of ingredients in the following treatment mask. It can be the treatment mask for acne, dehydrated or ageing patients, exfoliating the epidermis and killing the bacteria in the follicles. It is used on mature skin with fine lines and hyper-pigmentation and on dehydrated and dull skin. It has been found that this treatment lessens the appearance of fine lines, lightens the hyper-pigmentation and refines the texture when used in a series. It also has an immediate firming effect for your patients. These treatments are fast, effective and non-invasive, making them the perfect facial for a busy patient.
“Pumpkin masks provide a needed change of pace in treatments. Patients need more options”, says Sean Abel – National Manager of Clinic Care. “Not only does the patient become bored when having the same treatment, their skin slows or stops progress. Pumpkin is a great treatment to alternate in the treatment room as it performs well, with no irritation on all skin types. It supports the client’s move towards, ‘waking their skin up’ if it has stopped responding to other treatments.
Pumpkin can also be performed in a dual modality to enhance other peels or microdermabrasions..
Some medical aestheticians are using pumpkin in a series of six or more weekly treatments. It awakens the epidermis and dermis on dull, lethargic skin, and stimulates production of elastin and collagen to support.
Therapists are using it to moderate oil flow production, to treat grades I & II acne skin and as a change of pace to salicylic series or higher grades of acne skins.