What clients want
Long, fluttery, dark lashes are the mainstay of any beauty routine, but loading up lashes with mascara in the heat of summer can be a real drag, not to mention the risk of the colour running and smudging. Spring and summer are the ideal time to ramp up marketing for lash services such as extensions and tinting.
The first recorded use of ‘false eyelashes’ was in 1916 when film director DW Griffiths wanted actress Seena Owen to have lashes “that brushed her cheeks, to make her eyes shine larger than life.” The lashes were made of human hair woven through fine gauze by a local wig maker, which was then attached to Owen’s eyes for the duration of filming. Lash extensions as we know them today were developed in South Korea and even since then, things have come a long way.
Using today’s technique of individual lashes it is possible to create a bespoke effect for each client that ranges from natural to spider-lash. There are a number of excellent lash extension brands available, and chances are high that you already offer them in your salon.
Between now and Christmas and through the summer months, make a point of highlighting the benefits of this service at your salon and on your website with beautiful imagery and marketing materials.
Avoid: Extreme heat (and cold) has a significant effect on how long extensions last. Even the temperature of your salon while the extensions are applied will effect how quickly and well the glue sets; too hot and the glue will set too quickly, too cold and it may not set at all. A moderate, even room temperature is recommended at all times. Likewise, the heat and humidity outdoors may cause the lash adhesive to break down more quickly. Manage client expectations by explaining this at the time of their appointment, and recommend that they limit their time outside in extreme heat. Clients who suffer from watery eyes due to summer allergies are also likely to lose their lash extensions more quickly.
For clients with pale lashes, tinting can give them lasting colour definition without the use of mascara.
The tint debate
There are currently no colour additives approved by the FDA for the permanent tinting of eyelashes or eyebrows. This is due to the potential for serious eye injury as a result of misuse. While the practice of lash and brow tinting is permitted in New Zealand, it is essential to follow safety precautions and always perform a patch test at least 24 hours prior to tinting, even if your client has her lashes tinted with you before.
Byrdie.com recommends the following tips for your clients to extend the life of their extensions:
• Go lighter – the thicker and heavier the individual lash, the more likely it is to peel and fall out.
• Advise clients to keep eye creams and oils away from the lashes and lids as they may cause the lash glue to break down.
• Also advise clients to sleep on their back, to avoid squashing lashes against
• Avoid waterproof mascara. Although mascara at all may be unnecessary, if they have to wear it, waterproof mascara is a no-no as it is difficult to remove and may tug out lashes.
What clients want:
Bold brows are very in fashion right now, thanks to modern beauty icons such as Jennifer Connelly and Cara Delevigne. For clients who have over plucked and over groomed their brows for years, it may seem an impossible task to achieve a fuller brow, but there are treatments available to shape and enhance even the thinnest of brows.
The latest treatment craze that is just reaching our shores is brow extensions, which involves carefully gluing synthetic or real hairs onto existing fine hairs or directly onto the skin, to give the illusion of fuller brows, or extend the brow line. This treatment is perfect for clients who experiencing age-related brow hair loss, or simply those with over-plucked, over waxed brows.
Because no two clients have the same brows, the process is completely bespoke and gives a realistic and natural result that cannot be achieved with pencils and powders, not to mention the longer staying power. Like lash extensions, with the correct care and maintenance, brow extensions can last for up to 14 days.
Avoid: Like lash extensions, the adhesive that bonds brow extensions to natural brows is vulnerable to extremes in heat, steam, skin care and make-up. The same level of aftercare and regular infills is required to maintain brow extensions in the long term.
Semi-permanent make-up (tattooing) is a great option for clients needing definition and shape to the brow area, as it is waterproof, long lasting and allows them to ‘forget’ about brow make-up. Although similar to tattooing in that it involves the implantation of pigment into the skin, micropigmentation experts are quick to point out that the aesthetic result is
Micropigmentation requires specialist knowledge and training, as well as a steady hand that allows for precision work. Note that new local council bylaws have come into place that affects the practice of micropigmentation, under ‘Part 3: Piercing of the skin’. Clinics must obtain (and keep record of) written client consent, and there are a number of regulations concerning sterilisation and safety. To view the full Bylaw and Code of Practice visit
Avoid: Like any tattoo, clients should not put sunblock over freshly-tattooed brows, and should avoid direct sun exposure for at least three months. In general, sun exposure should be limited to reduce fading of the pigment.
Top tips to share with your clients:
From celebrity brow artist Elke Von Freudenberg
1. Growth cycles
Most people think brow hairs grow in the same place over and over. What really happens is there are several cycles of hair that grows, not just one. Growing in takes time, and a lot of patience.
2. Don’t be overwhelmed
You’ll only need two to four more rows of hair along the brow to see a difference and it doesn’t mean underneath the brow. Brow growth along the tops of brows helps too, and is easier to grow in.
3. The right products
Want a thicker looking brow? Try applying a clear brow wax, then your brow powder and then a second layer of brow wax. You’ll thicken up the look of your
4. Learn to love powder
For those overplucked brows, a pencil can leave a very drawn in look, hence the way your mum used to do it. TIP: Try filling in with brow powder along the tops of the brows for an instantly thicker brow.
What clients want
After languishing under layers of winter clothes and heavier make-up, skin is likely to be dull, dry and congested. Celebrity a-listers such as Charlize Theron and Jessica Alba swear by oxygen facials, LED treatments and microdermbrasion to keep their skin glowing throughout summer.
Light-emitting diodes (LED) are a non-invasive form of light therapy, one of the oldest modalities to make use of the healing properties of the sun for skin rejuvenation. Recent research via the NASA space program showed that “LEDs stimulated wound-healing at near-infrared wavelengths of 680, 730 and 880 nanometers (nm). Furthermore, near-infrared LED light has quintupled the growth of fibroblasts and muscle cells in tissue culture.”
When light photons are absorbed by the skin they give up their energy, which is absorbed by the cells, increasing circulation and oxygen flow. Because the energy emitted by LEDs is substantially lower that the other common light modality – lasers – they do not damage tissue in the process. This has a number of benefits, including being a completely painless treatment with no recovery time, and one that can be done on all skin types. The one downside to LED treatments is that results take longer to appear, and clients can feel like ‘nothing is happening’. The upside is that the treatments can be performed year-round and have no recovery time.
Avoid: LED (or any light therapy) is not recommended for clients who are pregnant, suffer from epilepsy, or have taken acne medication, steroids, cortisone or medications that cause light sensitivity in the previous 12 months.
Topical oxygen (via pressurised oxygen tanks) has long been used in hospitals to aid with the healing of burns. Modern oxygen skin care is based on the theory that all cells require stable natural oxygen for skin cell metabolism. Unstable oxygen molecules are single molecules known as free radicals, which have a negative impact on skin. Stable oxygen consists of two atoms bound by a chemical bond, and the application of topical oxygen increases the number of stable oxygen molecules, helping to accelerate dermal collagen production and stimulate tissue repair.
Oxygen facials also use compressed, medical-grade oxygen sprayed at high pressure onto the skin, as a delivery mechanism for other active ingredients in to the skin. The combined high pressure oxygen and active ingredients (usually a serum) penetrate through to the lower levels of the epidermis, where the oxygen is said to increase absorption of the active ingredients.
With no downtime or contraindications, oxygen facials are beloved by Hollywood A-listers as a way to infuse their skin with radiance before a red carpet appearance.
A tried and tested modality that, used correctly, results in improved skin texture, smoothness, brightness, stimulation of collagen production and a temporary reduction in pigmentation. It is great for decongesting skin prior to other treatments as it causes the cells of the stratum corneum to separate and slough off, giving access underneath.
When prescribing microdermabrasion for clients, there are a number of things to note. First, a single session of microdermabrasion, on its own, will have little long-term effect on the skin. For best results, microdermabrasion should be done in a course of three or more, and combined with other facial treatments and home care that nourish and support the skin’s healing process. Second, clients must avoid exposure to the sun for at least two weeks after microdermabrasion, and sun protection is essential even if their only time outside is walking to and from their car.
Avoid: Swimming in chlorinated water is not recommended for the first 48 hours after microdermabrasion (or other corrective treatments such as peels) due to the risk of irritation. Never perform microdermabrasion on a client with sunburned skin, open wounds, lesions or infections such as cold sores.
Your clients will have heard time and again about using sun protection to reduce sun damage and their chances of developing skin cancer, but studies show that many people still do not use adequate sun protection. Appeal to your clients’ vanity in a new way by explaining that when they continually expect their skin to protect and repair itself against sun damage, they are diverting its energy away from what it really wants to do, which is generate new, youthful looking skin. A good analogy is going out in the rain without an umbrella, when you have just spent an hour blowdrying and styling your hair so you can go out dancing with the girls. Not only does your hair now look terrible, you have to go back and spend more time drying and styling it before you can get to what you really want to do. Don’t waste your skin’s valuable energy on sun protection when it could be generating beautiful skin!
What clients want
With bikini season just around the corner, chances are your clients are starting to focus on their wobbly bits. While diet and exercise and paramount to maintaining a healthy weight, you can still help them get their bodies as smooth and wobble-free as possible, not to mention stimulating sluggish circulation and fluid build-up.
Manual lymphatic drainage
The lymphatic system lies directly beneath the skin and has three main functions: to remove excess fluids from body tissues; to absorb fats and transport them to blood; and to protect the body against disease. Poor lifestyle, injury and illness can all contribute to a slowing down of the lymphatic system, resulting in edema, poor circulation and even disease.
Lymphatic drainage massage dates back to 1930s France, where Dr Emil Vodder noticed that the majority of his clients were from consistently damp climates, had swollen lymph nodes and suffered from upper respiratory conditions. He and his wife Estrid developed a massage technique based on light, rhythmic movements to stimulate lymph flow through the body to the right lymphatic duct and thoracic duct, which drain into the circulatory system from the base of the neck. The technique soon spread through the medical community, then worldwide and is still in use today.
Avoid: Therapists should not perform lymphatic drainage massage without proper training. Contraindications include cancer or cancer treatment, thrombosis, heart, kidney or thyroid problems, asthma and pregnancy.
What clients want
Winter-worn feet will need some TLC before they are ready to slip into the plethora of sparkly, strappy, rainbow hued sandals hitting the shelves for the summer months. Ragged nails, scaly skin and cracked heels are common but easily treated maladies of the modern foot.
The average New Zealand foot takes around 5,000 steps each day, and yet it is one of the most neglected parts of our body. A ‘medi-pedi’ differs from a standard pedicure in that it focuses on the health of the foot and makes use of equipment such as nail drills, rather than just a relaxing, beautifying treatment.
Avoid: Correct training and equipment is essential to performing a safe and effective medi-pedi. Unless formally trained, therapists should avoid treating clients with open wounds, sores or
While a traditional pedicure may start to chip after a few days, gel polish is cured to the nail using UV light and can last two weeks or more before it starts to chip or needs replacing.
Avoid: Clients should be advised not to chip or bite at gel polish to remove it themselves. They should also rehydrate nails several times a day with a moisturising product to reduce the potential for brittle, chipped nails. Medical experts also recommend taking a ‘break’ from gel nails occasionally, in case of a persistent nail problem that will be masked by the constant use of gel polish.